More Observations in Delhi

Wealth Disparity-
Best captured while driving on the highway at night when we passed a bustling shantytown with illuminated store signs for Louis Vuitton and Dior visible in the background at the nearby extravagant mall. The Ambience mall in Delhi is different from the average American mall in that you can find ALL types of stores (clothing, full grocery stores, full electronics, luxury car stores etc.) under one roof. In the equivalent of Best Buy, I saw televisions for sale that were more advanced than anything I have ever seen in the USA. The parking lot of the mall was full of Bentleys, Rolls Royce’s and other high-end luxury cars that are infrequently seen in the average American city. On the flip side, the prevalence of poverty is salient in many ways. The impoverished are similar in appearance to that of Nepal, but the sheer magnitude of the population is disheartening. One striking difference between Delhi and KTM is the state of the average stray dog. In KTM, they sometimes look mangy but otherwise healthy and content; in Delhi, the average stray is mangy, emaciated and appears to be miserable.

Hand Eating-
One aspect of Nepali/Indian culture that I had resisted until recently was the eating of whole meals with one’s hand. My previous attempts were only semi-successful and I would only do it at special meals in the absence of silverware where I had no choice. I initially tried it to amuse Supreet’s helper (from Nepal), but have embraced the practice and now look forward to the ‘hand meals’ where one simply washes up and digs in. I learned that ‘rules’ and norms exist, such as eating from the edges and making your way to the center and not spinning the rice into a utilitarian ball shape, as rice balls are associated with funerals/death. It took a few meals to get the mechanics down but I am now fairly confident in my ability to eat without cutlery and not appear barbaric. The only drawbacks to the practice are that I tend to eat a lot more and I lack feeling in the fingertips of my right hand from scooping up piping hot rice.

Global Appeal of WWE-
If you had asked me one week ago to provide examples of things that are exclusive to white trash culture, professional wrestling would have been high on my list, but no more! I was shocked, humored and delighted to find a channel that airs nothing but old and current WCW/WWF matches. Scott Steiner is headlining an event in Delhi in the near future that I have seen advertised all over town and I learned that there is a sabremetric-esque campaign to get Edge inducted into the WWE Hall of Fame based on overall number of victories and accomplishments (there’s pundits, too! I don’t even remember wrestling pundits!). I wished I had known that Shehrish’s aunt’s mother is a current huge supporter as I can hold my own in any wrestling conversation, being obsessed from ages 12-16.

No Whitey-
I assumed there would be more Caucasians in Delhi based on the population but actually think KTM houses more white folk on average than does Delhi. I initially just thought I was staying in a non-tourist area but barely saw anyone of similar skin tone even at the tombs/monuments, just varying shades of brown. Perhaps they congregate at the Taj Mahaj in Agra, in which case I’ll be following suit and joining them shortly.

Women’s Tennis-
I stayed in yesterday, debilitated from aforementioned poison cheese and watched hours of the Australian Open. I don’t mind tennis but probably only see an average of five whole matches a year and only knowing winners from watching Sportscenter and other talking head shows. The women played in the morning and the men played in the afternoon and I quickly determined that women’s tennis is as unwatchable as women’s basketball. I have seen both genders play before but never in succession. It may be an open secret that nobody talks about but I don’t see how even the biggest feminists can watch the ladies play; comparatively the play seems in slow motion and is much louder from the incessant screaming. I will accept no arguments, women’s tennis is garbage and I’ll never watch it again.

Infallible Tourist Law #1
Don’t eat cheese that looks or tastes weird. I first ignored this rule in Nepal, where I ate ‘T-momos’ with a cheese sauce that seemed off to me and I got really ill. I ordered paneer chili (one of my favorites) in Delhi and it looked strange upon arrival. It normally is served spicy with vegetables but this version came in a sauce that I can only describe as ‘American-Chinese food sauce’. I spent that evening projectile vomiting Exorcist style and was completely incapacitated for 24 hours, only recovering after guzzling electrolytes. When in doubt, pass on cheese.

Mortality Flash-
I was recently on my former running route when I noticed a group of stray dogs had seemingly innocuously gathered in the middle of the street to sunbathe. I often run by 1-2 dogs several times on this route and they even look at me, but something about the scene triggered a ‘danger’ sixth sense within me. I contemplated turning around or hopping the barrier but kept forward as these dogs had never hassled me in the past. As I approached, the dogs all stood up in unison and surrounded me, snarling and growling. I instantly froze and looked for a gap but was thoroughly corralled. I dashed toward one of the larger gaps and the presumed alpha dog lunged after me, leading the chase. I sprinted for my life for an estimated 300 yards before they finally relented. Since then I have been running at a lovely nearby park where I have seen monkeys but have not yet been hassled, aside from being teased and flipped off by school children.

We will be in Jaipur and Agra from January 29-February 2, notably visiting the Taj Majal in the latter. Hope everybody is well.